Fair Trade Images

Fair Trade Logos

Why is Fair Trade a great alternative to conventional trade? What are Fair Trade's key practices?

Fair Trade is a great alternative because it aims to offer the most disadvantaged producers in developing countries the opportunity to move out of extreme poverty through creating market access under beneficial rather than exploitative terms. With Fair Trade, trade becomes a developmental tool with many positive externalities.

Fair Trade is defined by several key practices:

1 Agreed minimum prices, usually set ahead of market minimums. Fair Trade prices are set taking account of local economic conditions to allow producers a living wage. Farm workers are guaranteed the legal minimum wage set by the International Labor Organization at the least, and producers are guaranteed a price above the cost of production. This allows producers to plan ahead and invest in the future of their business, as well as enables socially just and environmentally sound production

2 Focus on development and technical assistance via the payment to suppliers of an agreed social premium (often 10 % or more of the cost price of goods). This allows them to collectively implement larger development projects, such as building schools, sinking new wells, pension plans, housing, and other social investments. Small scale farmers are usually organized into democratic co-operatives that decide how the fair Trade premia are to be spent. Thus Fair Trade ensures that producers move out of subsistence poverty through trade rather than aid

3 Direct purchasing from producers. Fair Trade lessens the influence of brokers, consolidators and other agents in global supply chains and thereby to increase efficiency, reducing the number of margins within a value chain. This ensures that more of the final price can return to the producer

4 Transparent and long-term trading relationships. Fair Trade certification ensures that importers sign long-term contracts so that producers do not suffer from the effects of the buyers’ short term basis. This allows producers to plan ahead and invest in new technology

5 Co-operative, not competitive dealings. This is also an important element in the ethical positioning of fair Trade products. Fair trade holds mutual respect relationships and is a more efficient way of delivering value to the consumer, leading to higher quality product and consistency of supply

6 Provision of credit when requested. Since importers generally have much easier access to credit than do developing country producers, importers are required to pre-finance up to 60 per cent of the total purchase of seasonal crops. This enables the farmers to receive an advance for their crop even before it is exported

7 Provision of market information to producers. Fair Trade transactions keep producers informed about market movements. Since Fair Trade producers still typically sell the bulk of their produce to non-Fair Trade buyers, this is especially useful in their wider negotiations

8 Farmers and workers are organized democratically. Small scale farmers must belong to a co-operative that is democratically organized and which practices one-farmer, one-vote systems

9 Sustainable production is practiced. Resource management is necessary. Certain pesticides are prohibited and more environmentally just production is promoted. Many farms use Fair Trade premia to invest on organic certification, which decreases environmental impacts and also pays higher wages

10 No labor abuses occurred during the production process. In all cases, child and slave labor abuses are prohibited and workers must be allowed to unionize

These practices are guaranteed by Fair Trade Certification which is governed by the Fair Trade Labelling Organizations (FLO) which is a non-profit, multi-stakeholder association involving 23 member organizations traders and external experts. The organization develops and reviews Fairtrade standards and provides support to Fair Trade Certified Producers by assisting them in gaining and maintaining Fairtrade certification and capitalizing on market opportunities.
More information on Fair Trade organizations can be found on: http://www.fairtrade.net/

More information regarding Fair Trade can be found in: Nicholls A. and Opal C., 2004. Fair Trade. London, SAGE.

Alternative to Global Trade: Fair Trade

What is Fair Trade?

In a few words, fair trade is more money to the poor, a rethinking of global trade, it is a market opportunity as well as an empowerment of both the producer and the consumer. It aims for immediate poverty alleviation and more long-term producer development by promoting a supply chain that delivers value to producer and buyer more evenly, and treats the producer with greater fairness than conventional trade.

'Fair Trade Certification empowers farmers and farm workers to lift themselves out of poverty by investing in their farms and communities, protecting the environment, and developing the business skills necessary to compete in the global marketplace.'
- Trans Fair USA, 2008

Alternative Textiles: Organic and Non-Synthetic Fabrics

Alternative Textiles: Organic and Non-Synthetic Fabrics

Alternative Textiles: Organic and Non-Synthetic Fabrics

Fabrics used in the current eco-fashion trend are produced from sustainable resources such as organic cotton, bamboo, and hemp. These clothes are grown without the use of toxic chemical pesticides, fertilizers or genetic engineering, which means that thousands of pounds of chemicals are saved from contaminating the earth. These fabrics not only reduce pollution and our carbon footprint, but are all non-toxic, biodegradable and renewable!
We will focus on these eco-friendly textiles as a healthy alternative for both the consumer and the environment, as well as an innovative new textile (that provides the best alternative!) made from recycled fabric clippings from factories and recyclable PETE plastic water bottles that reduces waste from landfills while creating a new garment.

Eco-Fabrics Compared to Conventional Fabrics
Environmentally, conventional cotton farming takes a huge toll on our planet.
Problems with conventional cotton:
o With the use of harvesting machines to harvest cotton, the seeds and oil are mixed with the cotton and harsh chemical cleaners are used to remove the oil and seeds to clean the cotton.
o Extensive usage of herbicide and pesticides are utilized to grow cotton.
Here are some startling facts:
Conventional cotton is responsible for 25% of the insecticides used worldwide.
Some of the most toxic pesticides are used on cotton, and these enter our food chain through foods containing cottonseed oil.
To make one t-shirt, 1/3 of a pound of pesticides and other chemicals are used.
We all wear t-shirts, now imagine the effect of this on our bodies!
Choosing organic cotton helps to support organic farmers and gives motivation to conventional farmers who are trying to convert to organic practices.
What corporations want you to think is that trendy clothes are affordable and make you look stylish, and to not think about the social and environmental impacts these disposable fashions have!
Spreading the word to friends and family also helps to raise global awareness about the benefits of choosing organic cotton. Alternative fabrics aren’t that burlap sac the media portrays! Seek out the truth! Get informed! Let’s make fashion more green!
Now let’s help contribute to a healthier planet by voting with our dollar and supporting alternative fabrics!

Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is not only better quality cotton but also healthier and more sustainable than conventional cotton.
Organic cotton has the ability to be worn by people with chemical sensitivities, who are unable to wear conventional cotton because they have allergic reactions to the dyes and chemical traces it contains.
100% organic cotton, like convention cotton absorbs moisture and stays dry - it breathes (as opposed to nylon or other synthetic fibers which can cause perspiration).

Organic Cotton Production and the Environment
Organic cotton growers hand pick the cotton so it is much cleaner.
Mild natural cleansing products are used to wash the cotton.
When dying the product, only low impact environmental dyes or natural colorants such as clay are used.
The other benefit of hand picking and no chemical use is that the cotton fiber is much stronger; the fiber is not weakened by the chemical cleansers or dyes.

Bamboo
Bamboo fabrics, which look and feel like cashmere, are naturally biodegradable and sustainable.
Bamboo is grown without pesticides or fertilizers, absorbs more greenhouse gases, releases more oxygen and has a higher rate of growth than cotton crops.
The fiber looks the same as cotton in its un-spun form as a puffball of light, airy fibers.
It has a luxurious feel and excellent wicking properties, which is ideal for warm summer days.
Bamboo fabric is also known to absorb more sweat then cotton fabrics and allows the skins to breathe.
Bamboo is a great sustainable alternative to convention cotton as bamboo is a very quick growing grass and does not usually require the use of pesticides and herbicides to thrive. As a result, plantations can easily be kept organic and replenished yearly.

Bamboo Production and the Environment
Bamboo production leaves virtually no damage to the soil in which it is farmed, and it is one of the most sustainable renewable resources available.
Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass.
The fiber is made by pulping the bamboo grass until it separates into thin threads of fiber, which can be spun and dyed for weaving into cloth.
The process of making unbleached bamboo fiber is very light on chemicals that could potentially harm the environment.

Hemp
Hemp has been harvested for thousands of years and has been used for everything from paper to fuels.
Don’t think that hemp is a rough, ugly fabric! It’s actually a soft canvas or when blended with organic cotton, can be as smooth as silk!
Hemp crops are resistant to insects and disease so pesticides or insecticides are not used making hemp a non-toxic fiber.
Hemp is also biodegradable and can be harvested twice a year which makes it very renewable and needs minimal processing to make fabric. By comparison, a tree once cut needs 15-20 years to come back.
Hemp helps clean the soil, it drops leaves constantly during the growing season replenishing the soil of nutrients as opposed to cotton, which depletes the earth of its natural chemical and mineral balance.
Hemp is the strongest natural fiber used in clothing and is very durable. It lasts four times longer than cotton clothing.
Hemp has an important insulting feature as well as being a breathable fabric: it helps you stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter as it adapts to your body temperature.

Hemp Fabric Production and the Environment
Hemp fabric is a natural textile made from the bast fibers found in the stem of the hemp plant.
The long fibers are taken and spun or woven into fabric.
Most of our hemp clothing is blended with cotton to give it a soft, comfortable feel.
Hemp fiber resembles linen, as the production process is similar.

Recycled Fabric
Now what happens when all these clothes are thrown away?
Don’t fret! A new fabric can be created from discarded factory clippings or from reclaimed materials!
Fabric can be made from cotton fabric scraps from factories that are sorted by colour then mulched into a new cotton fiber, then PETE plastic bottles are used to create a poly yarn and the two are fused together making a totally new recycled fabric!
This recycled fabric is just as soft and durable as regular organic cotton or bamboo fabrics, except instead of extracting new resources to make the garment, you are re-using an old one and giving it a new life!

Overconsumption Issues

Overconsumption of Clothes - Social and Environmental Impacts

Though Farming:
· decreases in earth’s water balance
· cotton farming can reduce soil fertility, lead to soil salinisation, cause pest resistance, pollute water and presents a risk to biodiversity
Use of hazardous pesticides can contaminate ground water and can cause chronic health problems like sexual dysfunction, headaches and convulsions. Small scale cotton farmers in developing countries most of the time do not have any protective gear or the storage facilities to avoid poisoning. Cotton farmers are part of the rural poor and experience 99 per cent of pesticide deaths.
Through spinning, weaving and knitting:
· uses a lot of energy, produce solid waste and generate dust and noise
· involves the use of lubricants and oils (to strengthen and protect the fibres during production), which are then removed before the next production phase which uses a huge amount of water and even more chemicals
Fabric finishing:
· uses significant quantities of water, energy and chemicals (most of which are known as hormone disrupters) and produces substantial amounts of effluent
· bleaching is also used for most colouring. Chlorine based bleach is toxic and has negative effects on the immune system and reproductive system. (While it is not permitted in Germany and has largely been substituted by other methods throughout the rest of Europe, practice is still common worldwide)
· other bleach methods such as hydrogen peroxide is six times more expensive and is only active at temperatures above 60°C, which makes this bleaching process energy intensive
· dyes are based on petrochemicals, which are non renewable resources and pose many risks to human health and the environment 40,000 to 50,000 tons of dye into rivers etc annually
· after dye washing requires large amounts of water, which then turns into a highly coloured and polluted effluent
Transport between different processors adds to the carbon emissions.
The way we wash, dry and care for our clothes and creates a bulk of environmental impact. Moreover, most products created in the process are not biodegradable, and many consumers do not properly dispose of clothes at the end of its life increasing pollution levels everyday

The Impacts on workers through traditional trade mechanisms:
· the 'mobility' of the industry uses the cheapest labour possible. Competition to find the cheapest labour puts downward pressure on labour rights and working conditions
· the downward pressure on prices has increased, with the removal of the trade protection barriers in the textile and garment sector in January 2005.
· use of child labour, temporary contracts, absence of employment contracts, delayed payments and sexual harassment, insufficient provision of knowledge about employee rights and the denial to form associations are all part of social implications

Moreover, the traditional trade model usually involves processes that are dangerous to the health of workers and the environment. This is due to pesticide and chemical use during production, toxic waste, and waste from the final products and excessive packaging.

Take Action: Reduce your consumption patterns, reduce your waste, reuse and recycle products, turn to organic and non-synthetic fabrics and ethically made fair trade products. The rest of the blog is there to educate and guide you in this process through explanations of each action, highlights of the existing movement, innovative ideas, and fun activities! Have fun!

Great resources and links below:
Claudio L., 2007, Waste Couture: Environmental Impact of the Clothing Industry, Environ Health Perspective http://www.ehponline.org/members/2007/115-9/focus.html
Kate Fletcher, 2008, Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, Earthscan, London
Lee M., Eco Chic: How To Be Ethical And Easy On The Eye, Gaia Books Ltd, UK, 2007
Tilford D., 2008, Sustainable Consumption: Why Consumption Matters, Sierra Club,
http://www.sierraclub.org/sustainable_consumption/
Hartog M., 2008, Overconsumption and Health,
http://student.bmj.com/back_issues/1101/education/408.html
Vlais R., 2007, Overconsumption: Everyone's Problem, Living Ethically and Sustainably, http://www.leas.green.net.au/overconsumption.html
Nathalie, 2009, Make, Do and Mend, Overconsumption of Clothes,
http://www.make-do-and-mend.org/overconsumption_of_clothes__2.html

Hello Everyone!

The objective of this blog is to educate on overconsumption and eco-fashion so that our audience becomes aware of environmental and social impacts and acts to reduce overconsumption patterns through reduction of waste, reuse and recycle of products, and by turning to organic and non-synthetic fabrics, travel mugs, and ethically made fair trade products. It is created and updated by 5 York University students who have been inspired by an Environmental Studies Course: Environment, Media, Culture and Communication.


On our blog you can find useful information on the following topics:

Fair Trade

Organic and Non-synthetic Fabrics

Recycling clothing (Making the old new again)

Reducing Waste

Reusable products (travel mugs, water bottles, etc)

Checking out this blog is useful for many: those living on a budget, those wanting to change their lifestyle to an 'environmetally friendly' one, those wanting to make a change in their community, and those interested in learning more about the topic

Enjoy!

If you have any questions please feel free to contact any of the team members:

Angela Hansen, angeh@yorku.ca

Cat Mazzotta, kaliclothing@gmail.com

Olga Kouptsova, olgakoup@hotmail.com

Amanda Small,

Anthea Pugh,